Thursday 5th October, 2006
Up at 05:15, plane leaves at 08:15, 1 hour to Bangkok (Janet
was in Business Class, me not) - new airport, but to me it was a bit dirty and
certainly chaotic - they've not finished building parts of it!! Then a 3 hour
flight to Kathmandu, Nepal (Janet still in Business) - where it was a beautiful
day - lovely helpful lady showed us how to transit onto the Druk Air flight to
Bhutan - we weren't aware of it, but we were the last to board the plane (a nice
new Airbus 190) and pushed our way through to Economy class only to find all
seats taken - stewardess checked our boarding passes and it was then we realised
why my ticket for this leg of the journey was so expensive (US$ 465)..... yes...
the only 2 seats left - were front row - Business Class!!
Less than an hour's flight to Paro, Bhutan with wonderful
views of Mt Everest and lots of other Himalayan peaks from the left side of
the plane... we were on the right-side!!

Landing in Paro is reminiscent of Kai Tak, Hong Kong of
yesteryear.... lots of twisting and turning and skimming over peaks and along
valleys, with the final approach being below the height of houses along the
valley - brilliant!!
Met by Tashi and Ken (DHL Bhutan) in a Land Cruiser who told
us that we had to kill a bit of time. The road (65 Kms) from Paro to Thimphu
(capital city and DHL office site) was being widened and that meant closure from
time to time, so we headed in the opposite direction to go and see a couple of
Paro sights that we'd probably not have time to see later in the week.
Ken, Janet and Tashi on
the way UP to Victory Fort (Drugyel Dzong which was built in 1646 to commemorate
Bhutan's victory over Tibetan invaders). We really noticed the altitude (7,800
feet) puffing and panting our way up..
Er.... you'll notice Tashi and Ken are dressed in National
Costume....... its a national rule/requirement/law - more of that later..
That's Victory Fort
behind...


Big mountains all around - but
never saw the really high snow/ice covered ones except in the planes to and fro.
There again - those peaks behind are probably 10,000 feet.
After an hour or so we headed back towards Thimphu - a real
hairy road/drive (about 2 hours) - lots of sheer drops and big trucks -
and in the dark!! Into the Pedling Hotel where the room - turned out to be 2 - a
lounge and a bedroom - fairly basic - but fine for a few days. Showered, had a
couple of bowls of watery soup and into bed by 21:30 - tired - 2 hour time
difference!!
One very noticeable thing about Bhutan.... is.... the dogs....
there are loads of them... and they bark and howl all through the night.... you
DO get used to it!!
Friday 6th October, 2006
Up bright and early - downstairs for breakfast - then snooping
and checking out the views from our rooms...
We were on the second
floor and this was a house next door, that displayed clothes where the car is
parked - and operated like a market. Just to the left is a main walkway - so not
such a bad site.
This is panning a bit to
the left (see the walkway at bottom right) - Thimphu is in a lovely valley -
more of that later..
The hotel was full and busy early on - but around 09:30 one of
us had to go to work..... Tashi, Ken and Kandhu (owner of DHL Bhutan) pick Janet
up and drop me at the bank. I had to get local currency............. which
is.............??
Yes - you've guessed
it......... NGULTRUMS!!!! same value as Indian Rupees.
Our lounge/diner
and bedroom.... notice the
artwork between ceiling and walls...
I was well impressed with this artwork..... very Bhutan and
would you believe........ ALL PAINTED BY HAND!!!!!
Here's a small example -
there's lots more later on....


I haven't stitched this together,
but it was time for some more general "are shots" - at left is the Hotel
entrance - in the middle is The Swiss Bakery and at right is where the baking
gets done. As you can see - absolutely beautiful day!! Typical mountain climate
- dry, bright and warm in the sun but cool in the shade - fabulous!!
By 12:30 I was getting hungry - so into the Swiss Bakery for a
couple of ham and cheese rolls - and then it was off exploring....
About 800 yards from the
hotel (uphill) was this temple/stupe (Gongzhu Chorten) (came back to it later in
the week) - from there - downhill to...
The local petrol station -
but notice.... the orangey coloured roofing..... all handpainted!!

From there - to the main street (Norzin Lam) in town (why did I take 2
photos of this??)
Nice buildings... the
windows have to be "traditional" design - otherwise there is a "fine" to pay -
also buildings/houses generally have a couple of floors then the roof is flat -
and covered by corrugated iron-work or something more substantial, and this
space is where produce (e.g. chilli) is dried, if its not dried out in the open
on the roofing iron-work..
To Clocktower Square -
where, for some reason or another - I got very impressed by the buildings just
going out of shot at left....
That's it at left... and
between it and me is a row of Prayer Wheels - a pleasant spot - lots of seating,
lovely day....



See the little boy at
bottom centre..?? directly above him is a yellow sign..... DHL!!! These next
piccies are more of that same corner building - but closer in...



One of those stray dogs...
he's at bottom right of the rightmost piccie above
Bars (this is one), shops,
restaurants etc.. all have to have a blue sign identifying their name, telephone
number and address... quite a good idea..?? This one - if you're interested is
Rinchen Dorji Bar, Lower Market (apparently street names have only recently been
introduced, but people generally don't use them preferring to identify places by
"description"), Thimphu, Tel: 325045...

The backside of Clocktower Square, with.... at left...
Prayer flags all along the
National Soccer pitch....
The brown bit of earth is
the soccer pitch... but what impressed me about this area was the poor quality
of the pitch when compared with the lovely ?stands?/buildings (see the brown and
white ones (Royal Pavillion) down at pitch level on the far side of the
pitch??), where the Royal Family and guests can watch the game from.

Lots of work/construction on this side of the pitch. See
the Prayer flags at right... and further down the valley over towards the left
of the furthest cricket pitch is where the National Sport.............. (what is
it???)......... yes.......... Archery!!.. is played.
OK - that was enough
exploring for the first day, but on my way back to the hotel - these buildings
caught my eye. The lovely new one at left (see the roof hangs over and the brown
"rim" just below it is wooden shuttering allowing access to the open-air. Then
next door is another new building under construction and then another completed
new building. See the traditional windows?? above the big reflecting ones... All
the brown wooden shuttering is hand-painted...
Janet was home by 18:30 and we then went off for a lovely
dinner at Kandhu's house - lots of DHL people and lovely food - and wine (local)
- and a very impressive/amazing Temple/worshiping... room - full of paintings,
decorations, altars etc.
Saturday 7th October, 2006
Shame, its a weekend and DHL people offer to show us around -
but Tashi has a cold, Jamyung's daughter is in hospital - but Tashi is brave and
off we go...

First we go far up the Thimphu Valley, lots of rice fields.. and then
come back towards town past the Ministries and Government buildings...




The lovely buildings behind are
Tashichhodzong (as of course you know) - Ministries and Administration
buildings... lovely... amongst rice paddy fields!!

Lovely hey?? Me... not the view!!
And then we were off to The Centre for Bhutan Studies.......


where all manner of handicrafts
are taught, including.... the lovely painting you see everywhere, as well as
sculpture, metal-work, embroidery etc.

And fabrics and clothes design...

All "years" are taught in the same room - these boys were about year 4
and were offering this painting for sale - a good fun, cheeky lot!!
and after this - a mile or
so down the road.... The Folk Heritage Museum...
Where this Mum with her
little daughter......
and son...



Looked after the souvenir shop...
Whilst dad got on with the
painting/work.....

This was basically nice gardens and craftwork for sale with an
original/old Bhutan Farm House which was too dark to take piccies within...


That's the farm-house behind Tashi..
That's it!!
and this is a water driven
mill
Nice setting for a
Folk/Heritage Museum...??
Tashi drops us at the hotel around 12:30 and we go to the Arts
Cafe (next door to the Swiss Bakery) for some grilled ham & cheese sandwiches.
One interesting thing about menus.... just about wherever we went.. any menu
that had eggs or chicken on it - when you asked for it - "sorry don't have" -
the reason - Bird Flu - you could get local eggs - but very, very rarely!! The
Govt. had banned all chicken and eggs from sale.
We decided to find out what this Archery was all about......
down to the Archery ground where (just about) all day, every day - there was a
competition going on.....
That's half of each team
down that far end. And all the grass you see is where the arrows fly... from
that end.....
Along here......
(spectators on both sides)...
To that mound of earth at
centre - where the other halves of both teams are. What appears to happen
is..... (assuming 2 from each team are at either end)... One end shoots first...
say Team A step up from the left end.... the members of Team B, at the right end
will start chanting and calling to the other end and may even walk and waltz
around the target (which is a white piece of paper about A4 size - but round)
until the A Team bloke - fires.... then ....very casually.. Team B boys watch
the incoming arrow - and sometimes very late on even move their bodily parts out
of its flight - and if it misses (which it generally does) they start ridiculing
and carping at the other team at the other end.... One end fires 2 arrows each
and then the other end get a chance.. Apparently people (participants) have been
injured/killed - but usually when an incoming arrow badly misses and ricochets
off a rock or other object. I thought it was pretty dangerous for the spectators
too - but maybe I'm being too...... western!!
The bows/arrows they use are "traditional" - but there is also
a League using new/techno bows etc... and apparently the Traditional users tend
to "pull" and let-fly very quickly - because the bow is quite fragile - and they
also have to tend to "lob" at the target. Whereas the "techno" boys, can fire
almost horizontal, and can "pull" and "aim" and the arrows fly so much faster -
that the casual parading around the target is eliminated. (so much for techno
progress!!).
Then it was "shopping"... and looking around...


Even the little kiddie-winks wear
National Dress.....
New hotel under
construction...
Chili's being
dried......in the middle of town...
Clocktower square and
Prayer Wheels..

And - above Janet's head.... that DHL sign again!!
Back at the hotel... I wanted to get piccies of the
hand-painting.....

These are on landings...

Whilst this is the corridor from the landing to our room - at the end
on the left. Notice - its not just the cross-members that get painted - it's the
up and down stretches too!!
bar-opening-time
and dinner at the hotel.
Sunday 8th October, 2006
Up late, into Swiss Bakery (not much on offer - depart), into
Arts Cafe - they were still sweeping up - also not much on offer - grilled ham
and cheese sandwiches again...
Jamyung will pick us up at 10:30... but its grey, raining and
miserable... but never mind - we're off to Dochu La Pass....(10,000 feet)...
...... and here we are!!
The main East-West road has to go through the Pass and this is the top, with
lots of prayer flags and lots (108 - the magic number) of Stupa!!



Since we've arrived - the sun is breaking through - allowing some
fantastic views.....



These two were just
hanging about in the car park - apparently the one with the black head and feet
is a goat, whilst the other is a sheep....
OK - time to head back to town - trying to get views of Queen
Mother's Palace....


Its somewhere around here...
....Ah-ha... there it is...
well secured and private!!
Time to swap "guides"..... Somnam and Tashi are there - and
off we go - to...
The National Park to see
the National Animal - The Takin (bovine, antelope) - looks a bit like a
Wildebeest....


and now we're heading for the BBS
Tower...
Good vantage point for
views of Thimphu...
Tashi, Somnam and
lots of trees.. Then it was back into town, up to the Gongzhu Chorten temple
where Tashi did her 100,000 prostrations some while ago (took 3 months!!). Tea
at the Zone Cafe (lots of mosquitos), some handi-craft shopping then back to the
hotel (Voddie-time), dinner (Curry) in the hotel.
9th October, 2006
A lazy day for me - Janet off to work then dinner (with a
bottle of Cotes du Rhone) at Plums Restaurant (Thai) - good.
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